But if wheat and dairy cause such trouble, why did our ancestors ever start consuming them? In the case of lactose – the sugar found in milk – people in many populations actually evolved what’s known as ‘lactase persistence’. We can all tolerate lactose as babies; it’s in our mother’s milk. We have a gene that makes an enzyme – lactase – specifically to break it down. Before the Neolithic Revolution, that gene would switch ‘off ’ after infancy, when lactase was no longer needed. But during the Neolithic Revolution, some human populations started to herd animals: the ancestors of today’s goats, sheep and cattle. At the same time, these populations began to evolve persistence of the lactase gene. No longer did it switch off after weaning, but instead remained on throughout adulthood.
Natural selection for lactase persistence happened really quickly in an evolutionary sense, which means one thing: if people are able to digest lactose as adults, it really helps them to survive and reproduce. In just a few thousand years, starting in the Near East, humans all across Europe shifted to lactose tolerance. Now, about 95 per cent of North and West Europeans can tolerate milk as adults. Elsewhere, other human populations who herd animals, like the goat-herding Bedouins of Egypt and the cattle-herding Tutsi of Rwanda, independently evolved lactase persistence through a different mutation than in Europeans.