Alice Feiring

The Battle for Wine and Love

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    Lena Krutovahas quoted10 months ago
    For centuries, some white grapes were blended in with the red grapes for Chianti, but now this practice is rare. The aromatic white grape Viognier is still added to some wines of the northern Rhône. Though counterintuitive, the practice enhances color.
    Lena Krutovahas quoted10 months ago
    Pencil-like tannins
    Lena Krutovahas quoted10 months ago
    The more I thought about it, the dogma of authentic wines would include

    Healthy farming practices

    Hand picking

    No extended cold maceration

    No added yeasts or bacteria

    No added enzymes

    No flavors from oak or toast

    No additives that shape flavor or texture

    No processes that use machines to alter alcohol level, flavor, or texture or that promote premature aging
    Lena Krutovahas quoted10 months ago
    As I explored this New World wine vs. Old World dichotomy, another theme kept coming up: confusion surrounding the word tradition.
    Lena Krutovahas quoted10 months ago
    They are rightfully fearful of advertising the reverse-osmosis process, believing that the public would “misunderstand.”
    Lena Krutovahas quoted10 months ago
    Winemakers these days are getting more comfortable admitting their use of micro-ox. But reverse osmosis and additives? Clark Smith proudly states their use on his own labels, but most winemakers are not so forthcoming.
    Lena Krutovahas quoted10 months ago
    Another of Clark Smith’s machines performs reverse osmosis, which he likes to call ultrafiltration.
    Lena Krutovahas quoted10 months ago
    tea bags of oak dust
    Lena Krutovahas quoted10 months ago
    the wine yeast: Saccharomyces cerevisiae
    Lena Krutovahas quoted10 months ago
    A few importers were scouting out some of Europe’s best. Most notably, I started to trust those imports from Kermit Lynch, New York’s Neal Rosenthal and Becky Wasserman, who was based in Burgundy.
    Lena Krutovahas quoted10 months ago
    Wines were becoming standardized, or as Jonathan Nossiter points out in his film documentary Mondovino, globalized. These “styled” wines were everywhere. A good name for them would be “Everyman,” as they had no distinguishing qualities, no sense of place. White or red, they were big, oaky fruit bombs with gobs of jam.
    Lena Krutovahas quoted10 months ago
    he found himself an American icon, which meant, of course, that he had become a brand name.
    Lena Krutovahas quoted10 months ago
    I had found a profession where smelling before drinking or eating was—unquestionably—socially acceptable
    Lena Krutovahas quoted10 months ago
    wine sales was a better living than wine writing
    Lena Krutovahas quoted10 months ago
    it tasted like peonies pressed between the pages of a treasured novel
    Lena Krutovahas quoted10 months ago
    I saw suited-up men spitting into buckets I realized that the time for swallowing was over
    Lena Krutovahas quoted10 months ago
    I was a Brooklyn-born New Yorker
    Lena Krutovahas quoted10 months ago
    One of the many disturbing outcomes of the rush to create a standardized wine is that it no longer matters where or on what you grow the grapes.
    Lena Krutovahas quoted10 months ago
    there is even a Wikipedia entry: Wine Parkerization, the widespread stylization of wines to please the taste of influential wine critic Robert M. Parker, Jr.
    Lena Krutovahas quoted10 months ago
    A business was actually thriving by helping wineries shape and coerce a wine into a fat, oaky, thick, dense wine that Parker would give big points to?
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