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Alice Feiring

The Battle for Wine and Love

An ';entertaining and passionate' connoisseur tours the vineyards of Europe and California, arguing for an old-fashioned appreciation of authenticity (The New York Times). The drastic effects that influential wine critic Robert M. Parker Jr. has had on the winemaking industry are best described as wine Parkerization. Many vintners are leaving old techniques behind and turning to chemistry and technology in order to please Parker's palate. This led to the disappearance of James Beard Foundation Awardwinning writer Alice Feiring's favorite winesand she was determined to learn why. In a one-woman crusade that will have you wondering what exactly is in your glass, Feiring argues against the tyranny of homogenization, Big Wine, consultants, and, of course, Parker's infamous one hundred-point scoring system. Traveling through the vineyards of the Loire and Champagne, to Piedmont and Spain, she searches for authentic Barolo, the last old-style Rioja, and the tastiest terroir-driven Champagnes. Feiring reveals what goes into the average bottlethe reverse osmosis, the yeasts and enzymes, the sawdust and oak chipsand why she doesn't find much to drink in California. She introduces rebel winemakers who are embracing old-fashioned techniques and making wines with individuality and soul. And finally Feiring explains what love's really got to do with it all, in a delightful read for anyone who truly appreciates the good things in life.
269 printed pages
Original publication
2009
Publication year
2009
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Quotes

  • Algirdas Daunyshas quoted3 years ago
    Or, perhaps he just liked taking the spotlight, because he must have known that there was a group of old-timers and anti-barrique boys that included Giacomo Conterno, Bruno Giacosa, Giacomo Fenocchio, Teobaldo Cappellano, and Bartolo’s own cousin Giuseppe Rinaldi.
  • Algirdas Daunyshas quoted3 years ago
    I told her my shortlist: Selosse. Françoise Bedel. Raymond Brigandat. José Dhondt. Fleury. Pierre Moncuit. Camille Saves. Davide LeClapart. Jacquesson. Jacques Lassaigne. Leclerc Briant. There are plenty of alternatives to the Yellow Labels and Moëts of this world. And, in a pinch, I am also quite fond of Bollinger and can drink Pol Roger, too.
  • Algirdas Daunyshas quoted3 years ago
    With his wife, Pierre now operates Champagne Larmandier-Bernier on biodynamic principles, and is one of the very few in the region working with indigenous yeast.

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