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Tania Sanchez,Luca Turin

The Perfumes: The A-Z Guide

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  • Irina Golybevahas quoted6 years ago
    Next come lactones in 1906, discovered by the Russian chemists Zhukov and Shestakov
  • Irina Golybevahas quoted6 years ago
    Some of the most successful aromachemicals of all time were musks developed for laundry in the late 1950s that did not get chewed up by microorganisms.
  • Irina Golybevahas quoted6 years ago
    Russian alcoholics drinking odekolon (eau de cologne) and sometimes writing novels afterward, such as Venedikt Erofeev’s Moskva-Petushki, bear witness to the relatively low toxicity of perfume materials. Most of them have a lethal dose around 300 milligrams per kilogram of body weight, which means a medium-sized human would have to swallow a liter of perfume before feeling seriously ill.
  • Irina Golybevahas quoted6 years ago
    Michelangelo’s David can topple over and kill you or your chaud-froid de grives au Gevrey-Chambertin can result in a kitchen fire, all art forms provide beauty at the expense of some risk, and the ratio of risk to pleasure afforded by perfume is as low as any.
  • Irina Golybevahas quoted6 years ago
    These have given us a slew of sandalwood-like materials ranging from Sandela (1960) to the fabulously powerful Javanol (2000) via Sandalore, Ebanol, Polysantol, and Osyrol.
  • Irina Golybevahas quoted6 years ago
    Dune, Angel, Chiffon Sorbet)
  • Irina Golybevahas quoted6 years ago
    known as the Big Five—Takasago, Firmenich, Givaudan, IFF, and Symrise—produce raw fragrance materials as well as compounding perfume oils.
  • Irina Golybevahas quoted6 years ago
    You can no more predict the next great beautiful perfumery idea than you can predict the next catchy melody before you hear it
  • Irina Golybevahas quoted6 years ago
    The fragrances known as soliflores, meant to represent a single material or flower, nice as they may be, have a hard time competing with the best perfumes unless they cheat in more interesting directions, because, unlike perfumers, flowers aren’t interested in us. Having heard innumerable passionate panegyrics on the smell of this or that blossom—honeysuckle, mimosa, gardenia, rose, linden, lily of the valley, get out your garden catalog and fill in the rest—I have taken the time to poke my face into many flowers, after checking for biting or stinging inhabitants. They have smelled mostly pleasant, occasionally harsh or disappointingly simple, ethereal or syrup
  • Tatyana Nalivaikohas quoted4 years ago
    Flowers are things I like to smell in passing, not on me.
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